THE SECOND LEG OF A ONCE-IN-A-LIFETIME
ADVENTURE ACROSS ALASKA,
INTO THE LIVES OF THE WILDEST ALASKANS -- BEARS.
I'VE STUDIED BEARS FOR YEARS, AND IN PART ONE OF OUR SERIES,
FILMMAKER JOE PONTECORVO AND I SET OUT TO SPEND A SUMMER
IMMERSED AMONG ONE OF THE GREATEST CONCENTRATIONS
OF BROWN BEARS IN THE WORLD.
BUT AS SUMMER WAS COMING TO A CLOSE,
WE HEADED NORTH TO ANCHORAGE,
THE BIGGEST URBAN CENTER IN ALASKA.
IT'S THE LAST PLACE I'D EXPECT TO SEE A BEAR.
NOT A GOOD SITUATION.
HERE, BEAR!
THIS BEAR IS FRANTICALLY SEARCHING FOR SOMETHING.
SHE'S BEHAVING LIKE WHEN THEY LOSE THEIR CUB.
THINK IT'S TIME TO GET IN THE BOAT!
THESE ARE THE BEARS OF THE LAST FRONTIER.
IT'S GOING TO GET A LOT HARDER
FOR ME, FOR JOE, AND FOR THE BEARS
AS WE HEAD OUT ON THE ROAD NORTH
IN PART TWO OF "BEARS OF THE LAST FRONTIER."
"NATURE" IS MADE POSSIBLE IN PART BY... AS WE HEAD OUT ON THE ROAD NORTH
LEAVE IT UNTOUCHED INSPBY YOUR PRESENCE.RE..
CAPTURE ITS IMAGE AND PRESERVE IT FOREVER.
CANON -- LIVING AND WORKING TOGETHER
TO APPRECIATE TODAY AND CARE FOR TOMORROW.
THE CORPORATION FOR PUBLIC BROADCASTING.
AND BY CONTRIBUTIONS TO YOUR PBS STATION
FROM VIEWERS LIKE YOU.
WITH A SINGLE STEP.
MINE BEGAN THE VERY MOMENT I CAME FACE-TO-FACE
WITH THIS REMARKABLE CREATURE.
BEARS ARE POWERFUL, INTELLIGENT, COMPLEX,
YET WILDLY MISUNDERSTOOD CREATURES.
ALASKA IS ONE OF THE LAST PLACES LEFT ON EARTH
WILD ENOUGH FOR BEARS TO THRIVE.
ALL THREE SPECIES OF NORTH AMERICAN BEARS
ARE FOUND HERE -- BROWN BEARS, BLACK BEARS, AND POLAR BEARS.
MY NAME IS CHRIS MORGAN.
I'VE DEDICATED HALF MY LIFE
TO THE STUDY AND CONSERVATION OF BEARS.
NOW I'VE EMBARKED UPON A 3,000-MILE JOURNEY...
INTO THE HEART OF THE BEAR'S WORLD.
WITH ME, MY GOOD FRIEND AND FILMMAKER, JOE PONTECORVO.
RIGGING ONE OF MY REALLY EXPENSIVE CAMERAS TO YOUR BIKE.
Chris: TOGETHER, OUR GOAL IS TO PEEL BACK THE LAYERS OF MYTH
AND MISUNDERSTANDING ON THIS COMPLEX CREATURE...
HE'S SPOTTED ANOTHER BEAR,
AND BECAUSE THE BEAR IS DOWNWIND,
HE DOESN'T RECOGNIZE WHO IT IS.
TO BETTER UNDERSTAND THEIR PERSONALITIES.
TO WITNESS FIRSTHAND HOW THEY LIVE TODAY,
AND WHAT THE FUTURE MIGHT HOLD
FOR THE BEARS OF THE LAST FRONTIER.
OUR ADVENTURE BEGAN
ALONG THIS ISOLATED STRETCH OF THE ALASKA PENINSULA.
LEFT ALONE, THIS REMOTE COASTLINE HAS BECOME
A CITY OF BEARS.
FOR THE PAST SEVERAL MONTHS, JOE PONTECORVO AND I
HAVE BEEN LIVING HERE
AMONG THESE MASSIVE COASTAL BROWN BEARS.
IT'S REALLY OPENED MY EYES TO WHAT THESE ANIMALS ARE.
BUT THIS IS JUST A FRACTION OF ALASKA'S BEAR HABITAT.
AND, AS ENGROSSING AS IT IS,
IT'S TIME TO HEAD NORTH.
Radio: ♪ KBEAR ONE-OH-FORECAST! ♪
Man: IT'S GOING TO BE CLOUDY LIKE THIS THROUGHOUT THE DAY.
CHANCE OF RAIN LATER ON THIS MORNING,
AND THEN RAIN LIKELY THIS AFTERNOON.
BUT WE'RE GOING TO HIT A HIGH OF 65, WHICH IS NICE.
WINDS UP TO 10 MILES AN HOUR.
Man: BROWN BEAR CROSSING THE ROAD
WAS STRUCK BY AN SUV
NEAR 19th AVENUE AND GAMBLE STREET.
OFFICIALS ARE TAKING STEPS TO REDUCE THE NUMBER
OF BEAR ENCOUNTERS.
THE NUMBER OF BEAR-PROOF TRASH CANS...
THE BEAR JUMPED OVER A FENCE INTO THE WOMAN'S YARD...
OFFICIALS CAPTURED ONE OF THE CUBS
THAT BELONGED TO A BROWN BEAR SOW KILLED...
ALASKA IS BEAR COUNTRY!
Chris: THIS IS THE FURTHEST
FROM ANY BEAR HABITAT I COULD IMAGINE.
YET HERE, IN THIS SPRAWLING METROPOLIS,
WILDLIFE THRIVES.
ANCHORAGE IS A LARGE CITY,
BY FAR THE LARGEST IN ALASKA.
YET IT'S STILL DWARFED BY THE STATE'S WILDERNESS.
IT'S A COASTAL CITY THAT SITS
AT THE BASE OF A MASSIVE STATE PARK.
THIS CONFLUENCE IS
WHAT BRINGS WILDLIFE INTO PEOPLE'S BACKYARDS.
MOOSE AND BLACK BEARS
HAVE WOVEN THEMSELVES INTO THIS URBAN SETTING.
THEY'VE LAID CLAIM TO THE ASPHALT AND MANICURED LAWNS.
BUT IT MAY BE MORE WILD
THAN ANCHORAGE HAS BARGAINED FOR.
THE CITY STRUGGLES WITH AN IDENTITY CRISIS.
PEOPLE IN GENERAL COME TO ALASKA
BECAUSE OF THE WILDERNESS THAT IT PROMISES.
AND YET A CITY, BY ITS NATURE...
IS MEANT TO CONTINUOUSLY GROW.
IN THESE NEIGHBORHOODS BORDERING THE STATE PARK,
DOGS ARE GENERALLY THE FIRST TO NOTICE A BLACK BEAR
ON THE PROWL.
THIS YOUNGSTER STREAKS SILENTLY
ACROSS STREETS AND THROUGH BACKYARDS
IN SEARCH OF AN EASY MEAL.
STILL, AS HE HOPS FENCES,
HE MANAGES TO DRAW A CROWD
FROM THE RESIDENTS EXCITED BY HIS VISIT.
Man: THIS IS A VERY CLEAN NEIGHBORHOOD.
THERE'S NOT A LOT OF GARBAGE OUT.
I DO SEE A FEW CANS THAT ARE OUT, SO THAT'S NOT GOOD.
Chris: WHERE CAN WE GO UP HERE?
OF COURSE, FOR RICK SINNOTT OF FISH AND GAME...
OH, YEAH, THIS IS LOOKING LIKE BACKYARD BEAR HABITAT, FOR SURE.
IT'S JUST TUESDAY.
RIGHT THERE!
THIS BLACK BEAR
HAS BECOME A REGULAR VISITOR,
AND RICK WANTS TO MAKE SURE HE STAYS OUT OF TROUBLE.
BUT KEEPING UP WITH HIM IS NO EASY TASK.
THIS LITTLE BEAR HAS NO PROBLEM
SCALING FENCES THREE TIMES HIS HEIGHT
AND MAKES BEING CHASED SEEM QUITE CASUAL.
PEOPLE IN ANCHORAGE ARE TOLD
TO KEEP THEIR BIRD FEEDERS EMPTY COME SPRING.
BUT BEARS SMELL THE SEED
THAT'S BEEN SOAKED INTO THE GROUND BELOW AND SEEK IT OUT...
RETURNING TO FAMILIAR SPOTS FROM SEASONS PAST.
BIRD SEED SEEMS LIKE AN UNLIKELY DRAW FOR BEARS,
BUT IT'S FULL OF PROTEIN AND FAT,
A VERY APPEALING SNACK FOR A BLACK BEAR.
Rick: WE'RE TRYING TO REFEREE
THE INTERFACE BETWEEN CIVILIZATION AND PEOPLE
AND NATURE AND WILDLIFE,
AND IT'S A ROUGH BOUNDARY IN ANCHORAGE,
BECAUSE WE'RE ALL INTERSPERSED.
OH, RIGHT THERE, RIGHT THERE.
HE'S SURROUNDED BY BIRD FEEDERS.
Rick: THAT'S WHY HE'S UP THERE, YEAH.
THOSE FEEDERS ARE REALLY HIGH,
BUT IT DOESN'T MATTER WITH A BEAR.
THEY'LL CLIMB THE TREE, THEY'LL CLIMB THE SIDE OF THE HOUSE.
THEY WANT THAT BIRD SEED REAL BAD.
Chris: UNBELIEVABLE, THAT THEY CAN HANG A BIRD FEEDER
OUT THE WINDOW THERE, THAT HIGH UP, TWO STORIES UP.
YOU WOULD THINK IT WAS WELL OUT OF THE REACH OF A BEAR.
LOOK HOW HIGH THAT TREE IS.
THEY'LL CLIMB THE SIDE OF THE HOUSE
IF THEY HAVE TO, BUT THOSE TREES
ARE PRETTY CONVENIENT RIGHT THERE.
Chris: THERE'S A TON OF SEED DOWN ON THE GROUND.
Rick: YEAH, YEAH, HE'LL PULL THEM DOWN,
KNOCK THEM DOWN.
Chris: THAT'S THE LAST PLACE I WOULD EXPECT TO SEE A BEAR.
THERE'S PEOPLE AROUND EVERYWHERE,
IT'S A REGULAR NEIGHBORHOOD, AND THERE HE IS.
DO YOU SEE
THIS KIND OF THING MUCH IN NEIGHBORHOODS LIKE THIS?
Rick: YEAH.
Chris: REALLY?
BEARS GET INTO THIS NEIGHBORHOOD
SEVERAL TIMES A SUMMER.
YOU MUST HAVE EVERY NEIGHBOR CALLING AT THAT POINT.
NOT EVERYONE -- IT'S SURPRISING -- A LOT OF PEOPLE
KIND OF ENJOY IT AND THEY DON'T WANT TO CALL.
THEY'RE AFRAID WE MIGHT SHOOT IT OR MOVE IT,
AND THEY WOULD RATHER HAVE IT HERE FOR A LITTLE WHILE,
AND ENJOY IT, TAKE PICTURES OF IT.
BUT OTHERS ARE FLABBERGASTED
AND NOT HAPPY ABOUT IT.
SO WE HEAR FROM BOTH SIDES, ACTUALLY,
THE PEOPLE THAT ARE NOT HAPPY
AND THE PEOPLE THAT THINK IT'S REALLY COOL,
AND JUST WANT TO LET US KNOW.
INTERESTING. AND WHAT DO YOU DO IN THIS SITUATION?
WHAT'S NEXT?
SOMETIMES IF WE'RE CLOSE TO THE PARK,
LIKE A STREET OR TWO, WE CAN CHASE THEM, BUT OTHERWISE...
IF YOU TRY AND CHASE THEM HERE, THEY'LL JUST RUN IN CIRCLES,
AND RUN UP EVERY TREE THAT SHE COMES TO.
YOU COULD SPEND ALL DAY HERE
JUST CHASING THEM FROM ONE TREE TO THE NEXT.
[ LAUGHS ] NOT GOOD. NOT A GOOD WASTE OF MY TIME.
EXHAUSTING AND UNPRODUCTIVE.
Rick: YEAH.
WE'LL JUST FOLLOW HER AROUND FOR A WHILE.
Chris: THIS BLACK BEAR MAY SPEND SEVERAL HOURS
PERCHED 20 TO 30 FEET UP THIS TREE
AND IS VERY COMFORTABLE
MANEUVERING ABOUT THE SLENDER BRANCHES...
DESPITE BEING 200 TIMES THE WEIGHT OF AN AVERAGE SQUIRREL.
THE TREE IS A SMALL TOKEN OF SAFETY
FROM PEOPLE AND FROM OTHER BEARS.
AND THEY'LL USE IT AS A SHIELD
BEFORE DARTING THROUGH OPEN AREAS.
Rick: IN MANY CITIES, YOU HAVE PIGEONS AND RATS THAT HAVE
ADAPTED TO PEOPLE, AND THEY BECOME PROBLEMS OR CONFLICTS,
BUT IN ANCHORAGE, IT'S THE MOOSE AND THE BEARS
THAT HAVE ADAPTED TO PEOPLE.
THEY EAT THEIR APPLE TREES
OR THEY TEAR UP THEIR GARBAGE
OR THEY THREATEN THEIR CHILDREN.
Chris: RICK AND HIS TEAM HAVE BECOME THE REFEREES
IN A SEEMINGLY ENDLESS GAME BETWEEN WILDLIFE AND PEOPLE.
IT'S A DELICATE BALANCE,
AND KNOWING WHEN TO MAKE THE RIGHT CALL ISN'T ALWAYS EASY.
ACROSS TOWN, RICK'S PARTNER, JESSY COLTRANE, IS ON PATROL.
Jessy: HEY, DID YOU SEE
A BLACK BEAR RUN THROUGH JUST NOW?
Man: NO, I DIDN'T.
OKAY, YEAH.
Jessy: IT REALLY ISN'T A 9:00-TO-5:00 JOB,
EVEN IF I GO THROUGH A DAY
WHERE I ACTUALLY WORK THE REGULAR HOURS
THAT I'M SUPPOSED TO WORK.
FISH AND GAME. THIS IS JESSY.
YOUR BRAIN NEVER SHUTS OFF.
I'M LIKE A TRASH RADAR.
I CAN DRIVE THROUGH A NEIGHBORHOOD,
I'M LIKE, TRASH CAN, BIRD FEEDER, TRASH CAN,
PILE OF DOG FOOD...
I HAVE A LOYALTY AND COMMITMENT TO THIS TOWN
AND TO THE WILDLIFE OF THIS TOWN AND TO THE PEOPLE OF THIS TOWN.
AND SO IT'S MORE OF A LIFE THAN A JOB.
I'M JUST GONNA TAKE THEM
AND PUT THEM IN THIS FIELD ACROSS THE STREET,
WHERE THEY'LL BE A LITTLE SAFER.
THAT WAY, THEY WON'T GET HIT BY A CAR AND THEY'RE FENCED IN.
[ LAUGHS ]
THAT ONE KEEPS HITTING ME IN THE HEAD!
AS ANCHORAGE GROWS, IT DOES GET DIFFICULT, AND WE LOSE HABITAT.
THERE'S MORE ROADS, MORE DEVELOPMENT.
THAT DOES MAKE IT MORE CHALLENGING.
PEOPLE REALLY DO APPRECIATE THE WILDLIFE THAT WE HAVE IN TOWN.
EVEN PEOPLE THAT SAY, "COME GET THIS BEAR OUT OF MY YARD."
IF I ASK THEM, WELL, DID YOU
TAKE A BUNCH OF PICTURES OF IT FIRST
AND E-MAIL THOSE TO YOUR FAMILY OR FRIENDS IN THE LOWER 48?
OH, YEAH, THEY DID.
Man: BETTER GO OFF!
GET OUT OF HERE.
Jessy: ONE OF THE BIGGEST DIFFERENCES
I'VE SEEN WITH BEARS THIS YEAR IS THAT
WE'VE HAD MORE BEARS TAKING UP RESIDENCE IN MIDTOWN.
AND THOSE PEOPLE IN THOSE NEIGHBORHOODS
AREN'T USED TO SEEING BEARS, SO THEY'RE A LITTLE MORE ADAMANT
ABOUT REMOVING THE BEARS.
OH, I SEE IT. OH, CAN I USE YOUR LADDER?
Man: SURE.
Jessy: UNFORTUNATELY, WHEN BEARS
FIND THEIR WAY INTO MIDTOWN, THEY RARELY FIND THEIR WAY OUT
WITHOUT SOME HELP.
Jessy: NO, HE'S JUST RIGHT HERE,
HE'S JUST A LITTLE FELLER.
EVEN IF IT ISN'T OF HUGE PUBLIC SAFETY CONCERN,
BECAUSE THE BEARS REALLY AREN'T DOING ANYTHING BAD,
JUST THEIR PRESENCE THERE CAUSES PEOPLE REALLY TO BE ALARMED.
[ DOG BARKING ]
CAN WE COME THROUGH YOUR HOUSE?
[ DOG BARKING ]
OW.
OH, MY GOD, THAT HURT.
LET'S SEE WHAT IT IS.
IT'S A LOT CLEANER THAN THE LAST ONE...
IT'S A LITTLE GIRL.
Jessy: SHE WOULD HAVE PROBABLY JUST PING-PONGED AROUND IN THERE
FOR THE MAJORITY OF THE SUMMER.
IN ORDER TO GET OUT OF THAT NEIGHBORHOOD,
SHE'D HAVE TO CROSS SOME REALLY HEAVY FOUR- TO SIX-LANE ROADS.
SHE WASN'T DOING ANYTHING
THAT I THOUGHT WOULD WARRANT ACTUALLY PUTTING THIS BEAR DOWN.
IT WAS JUST IN HER BENEFIT JUST TO GO AHEAD
AND MOVE HER ON OUT OF THERE.
WE SHOULD GO BEFORE SHE WAKES UP...
AND WE GOT TO GET GAS.
UNFORTUNATELY, THERE'S REALLY NOT A LOT OF GOOD PLACES
TO TAKE A BEAR.
WE JUST TRY TO TAKE HER
AS FAR AWAY FROM PEOPLE AND NEIGHBORHOODS AS WE CAN GET.
SO WE'RE DRIVING HER UP HERE TO THE EDGES OF CHUGACH STATE PARK.
WHAT DO YOU THINK? 180?
170? 180?
OH, THERE'S A STICK.
COME THIS WAY.
WHOO!
SHE'S COMING OUT OF THE DRUGS.
SHE'LL RECOVER FRONT END FIRST
AND THEN SHE'LL SLOWLY GET HER BACK END.
BUT SHE'S STILL REALLY LIGHT.
SHE NEVER REALLY WENT DOWN HARD.
BUT I IMAGINE SHE'D BE MOVING
OR SLEEPING THIS OFF
WITHIN 45 MINUTES, AT THE MOST.
WHAT DO YOU THINK? YEAH.
Rick: HEY, JESSY?
LET'S JUST SORT OF STAY BACK AND JUST KIND OF GET HER --
BOOST HER TOWARDS THE WOODS.
Chris: OH, SHE'S OFF!
CAN YOU RUN FAST WITH THAT CAMERA, JOE?
YOU KNOW, IT'S INSANE, YOU DRIVE AROUND THIS NEIGHBORHOOD,
AND THERE IS SO MUCH GREEN SPACE HERE.
AND THE MOUNTAINS FEED THE WILD ANIMALS --
MOOSE AND BLACK BEAR AND BROWN BEARS,
AT TIMES, RIGHT INTO PEOPLE'S BACKYARDS.
Woman: RIGHT NOW THERE'S THIS HUGE BROWN BEAR...
Chris: AND IF THERE IS GARBAGE OR BIRD FEED
OR COMPOST OR A BARBECUE
TO KEEP A BEAR THERE, THEN THEY'LL FIND THEMSELVES
IN A LOT OF TROUBLE.
LOOK AT THAT!
NOT GOOD, NOT A GOOD SITUATION.
Rick: GO ON, GO ON.
SHE'S ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THIS TRAILER.
[ CLAPPING ]
Chris: NICE!
SO THERE'S A GOOD CHANCE SHE'LL STAY IN THERE?
Rick: NO.
Chris: THERE ARE HUNDREDS OF MILES OF TRAILS
THROUGHOUT ANCHORAGE,
HEAVILY TRAFFICKED BY PEOPLE AND WILDLIFE.
Jessy: YEAH, IT'S REALLY SURPRISING,
BECAUSE YOU SEE ALL THESE TRACKS,
BUT IT'S JUST KIND OF
A POCKET OF WILDERNESS, THAT'S SURROUNDED
BY RESIDENTIAL AREAS...
WHAT DO YOU THINK? DOG OR BEAR?
I'M VOTING DOG.
THIS ONE LOOKS A LITTLE MORE LIKE BEAR.
IT COULD BE BOTH. OH, THE ONE THAT YOU FOUND?
THE ONE I FOUND ACTUALLY LOOKS LIKE BEAR,
AND WHAT YOU FOUND PROBABLY IS DOG.
OKAY, FAIR ENOUGH. LET'S MOVE ON.
Chris: ANCHORAGE IS ONE OF THE FEW CITIES
WITH A HEALTHY BROWN BEAR POPULATION.
AND DURING SALMON SEASON,
BROWN BEARS DOMINATE THESE TRAILS.
BUT YOU'D NEVER KNOW THEY WERE HERE
UNLESS YOU WERE LOOKING FOR THEM.
FOR THE MOST PART, BROWN BEARS AVOID PEOPLE,
OFTEN STEPPING OFF A PATH
MOMENTS BEFORE PEOPLE PASS THROUGH.
BLACK BEARS, ON THE OTHER HAND,
HAVE LEARNED TO ADAPT
MORE READILY.
THIS BOLDNESS HAS BECOME CHALLENGING
FOR RICK AND HIS TEAM.
Rick: BEARS ARE VERY CURIOUS
AND EXPERIMENTAL ANIMALS, AND THEY LEARN FAST,
AS FAST AS WE DO.
YOU'D BE AMAZED AT WHAT'S IN PEOPLE'S GARBAGE,
AND THEN YOU START
SEEING EVERY GARBAGE CAN AS AN OPPORTUNITY.
GO ON!
HE'S NOT THE LEAST BIT AFRAID OF US.
[ RATTLING ]
GO ON!
SHOO! SHOO! SHOO!
Rick: I'M SURPRISED WE DON'T HAVE
HUNDREDS OF BEARS, YOU KNOW,
CRUISING THE STREETS,
GETTING INTO GARBAGE CANS,
AND MAKING LIFE HELL FOR EVERYBODY.
BUT IT'S JUST A FEW.
HE'LL HAVE THIS ONE DOWN NEXT --
SUNFLOWER SEEDS --
HE'LL TRASH THAT NEXT.
Rick: A BLACK BEAR IS LIKE A 200-POUND RACCOON.
YOU DON'T WA TO MESS WITH THEM,
BUT THEY'RE NOT LOOKING FOR...
THEY'RE NOT KILLING PEOPLE IN A DEFENSIVE MODE.
WE'RE NOT BLASE ABOUT IT, BUT WE'RE TRYING
TO ADDRESS THE PROBLEM BY REDUCING THE GARBAGE,
AND NOT JUST BY SHOOTING OR MOVING BLACK BEARS.
Chris: DESPITE ALL THAT RICK AND JESSY ARE DOING,
THE REALITY IS THAT THE BEARS HERE
WILL BECOME MORE AND MORE URBAN.
AND WHAT DOES THAT MEAN?
IS IT A BEAR THAT
INSTINCTUALLY LOOKS BOTH WAYS
AS IT CROSSES THE STREET?
KNOWS WHEN GARBAGE DAY
IS IN THEIR HOME RANGE?
A MOTHER BEAR WITH YOUNG CUBS
HAS A HOME RANGE OF JUST A FEW MILES.
AND IN THE CITY, THAT MEANS HER CUBS LEARN TO BE COMFORTABLE
IN WHATEVER ENVIRONMENT THAT IS.
HUMANS HAVE A REAL
UNCANNY ABILITY TO TRY AND CONTROL
THEIR ENVIRONMENT, YOU KNOW.
IF YOU MOVE INTO BEAR COUNTRY,
DOES THAT MEAN THAT YOU TAKE EVERYTHING
THAT BEAR COUNTRY BRINGS WITH IT?
OR ARE YOU WILLING TO TAKE STEPS
THAT ACTUALLY ENABLE YOU
TO LIVE IN THAT WILDERNESS AREA?
OR ARE YOU LESS INCLINED?
DO YOU WANT TO CONTROL YOUR ENVIRONMENT MORE WHERE YOU LIVE?
REALLY DOES COME DOWN TO THAT ONE QUESTION,
HOW MUCH WILD ARE PEOPLE IN ANCHORAGE WILLING TO TOLERATE?
BLACK BEAR CUBS MIGHT LEAVE THEIR MOTHERS
AS EARLY AS A YEAR AND A HALF OLD,
MUCH EARLIER THAN GRIZZLY BEARS.
SO THESE LITTLE GUYS WILL LEARN TO FORAGE RIGHT AWAY.
MOST OF THEIR DIET IS PLANT-BASED,
BUT THEY'LL FEAST ON INSECTS
WHENEVER THEY HAVE THE OPPORTUNITY.
HEY, BEAR.
THIS FAMILY PROBABLY SPENDS A LOT OF THEIR DAYS
IN BUSY NEIGHBORHOODS.
BUT HERE, IN THE STILLNESS OF THE PARK,
SHE SEEMS CAUTIOUS AS I APPROACH.
SHE'S OBVIOUSLY A HABITUATED BEAR.
SHE'S SPENT A LOT A TIME AROUND THIS NEIGHBORHOOD.
AND I BET SHE DIPS INTO THESE BACKYARDS FOR TREATS
EVERY SO OFTEN, UNFORTUNATELY.
OF COURSE, ALL THESE BEARS HAVE THEIR OWN PERSONALITIES.
AND THIS GUY, FRESH FROM RAIDING A LOG, COULD CARE LESS
THAT WE'RE HERE.
I WANT HER TO KNOW THAT WE'RE -- HEY, BEAR!
IT'S OKAY, WE'RE STILL HERE, IT'S JUST US.
YOU KNOW, IT'S KIND OF INTERESTING -- I THINK
SHE'S -- SHE LOOKS LESS CONCERNED
WHEN SHE CAN HEAR OUR VOICES.
IF SHE JUST HEARS US MOVING THROUGH THE BUSH,
WELL, WE COULD BE ANOTHER BEAR,
UNTIL WE OPEN OUR MOUTHS,
AND THEN SHE REALIZES IT'S JUST US AGAIN.
ONE OF HER CUBS SEEMS
MUCH MORE CAUTIOUS, WHICH WILL
PROBABLY SERVE HER WELL.
FINALLY CATCHES UP, MUCH MORE CASUALLY,
AND STILL SPECKLED WITH SAWDUST.
I'VE ALREADY FIGURED OUT THAT SHE'S
A PRETTY EASYGOING BLACK BEAR.
SHE REALLY DOESN'T MIND US BEING HERE.
IN FACT, SHE MIGHT TAKE
SOME COMFORT OUT OF IT, BECAUSE THERE'S ALSO BROWN BEARS AROUND,
AND SHE PERHAPS KNOWS WE'LL HELP KEEP THEM AWAY.
OH, LOOK, THEY'RE PLAYING.
IMAGINE, THESE CUBS, IT'S ALL THEY KNOW.
THIS WILL BE ALL THEY'LL EVER KNOW.
THEY'LL HAVE THEIR ENTIRE HOME RANGE
AND SPEND THEIR ENTIRE LIFE
RIGHT IN THIS PARK, AND IN THOSE YARDS
THAT SURROUND THIS AREA.
IT'S QUITE AN INCREDIBLE THOUGHT, REALLY.
WILD ANIMALS IN AN URBAN SETTING.
FOR THESE LITTLE GUYS, THIS IS A NEW NORMAL.
IT DOESN'T MATTER IF IT'S A TREE OR A PICKET FENCE.
THEY'RE AS AMUSED BY THE FLIES INCHES FROM THEIR NOSE
AS THEY ARE BY THOSE THOUSANDS OF FEET IN THE SKY.
I HOPE THAT THERE'LL BE A PLACE FOR THEM IN ANCHORAGE.
I HOPE MAYBE OTHER CITIES WILL LEARN
TO ACCEPT BEARS IN THE SAME WAY.
I'M LOOKING FORWARD TO THE WIDE-OPEN SPACES
OF ALASKA'S INTERIOR,
THE VERY WILDERNESS
THAT INSPIRED ME FROM THE START.
IT'S FALL NOW, AND IT WON'T BE LONG
BEFORE THE BEARS DEN UP FOR WINTER.
I'M HEADING NORTH TO DENALI NATIONAL PARK
TO FIND OUT
JUST HOW TOUGH LIFE IS FOR THESE INTERIOR BEARS.
WELL, THAT'S FAIRLY MISERABLE.
[ LAUGHS ]
MOTORCYCLES ARE NOT ALLOWED IN DENALI NATIONAL PARK,
ONLY ENCLOSED VEHICLES.
TOO MUCH OF A TEMPTATION
FOR BEARS, I GUESS.
SO I HAVE TO TRADE IN MY TWO WHEELS FOR THESE FOUR WHEELS.
LOOKS GOOD.
IT RUNS ALL RIGHT, DOES IT?
RUNS OKAY. YEAH?
ALL RIGHT, I'LL TAKE IT.
THERE'S ONLY ONE ROAD INTO THE PARK,
A 92-MILE DIRT TRACK,
A SPECK IN DENALI'S SIX MILLION ACRES,
A PARK LARGER THAN THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS.
FOR THE WILDLIFE, IT'S ALL ABOUT ALTITUDE.
FROM THE TUNDRA BELOW
TO ALPINE ABOVE,
EVERY ECOLOGICAL NICHE IS FILLED HERE.
AND TO SURVIVE,
YOU'VE GOT TO KEEP ON THE MOVE...
STAY ALERT...
AND ALWAYS STICK TOGETHER.
THE SECRET TO SURVIVAL?
ANIMALS NEED PLENTY OF ROOM TO ROAM.
DALL SHEEP ARE ICONS OF THE PARK.
BUT IT'S DENALI'S REMARKABLE DIVERSITY THAT DRAWS
ROUGHLY 400,000 VISITORS HERE EACH YEAR.
YOU HAVE TO KEEP YOUR EYES PEELED, EVERY SECOND.
SEE THAT? YOU GOT IT?
SHE'S NOT RUNNING FROM US.
SHE'S REALLY AGITATED.
SHE'S IN THIS BRUSH HERE SOMEWHERE.
AND WE'VE LOST TRACK OF HER NOW.
SHE'S REALLY COVERING SOME GROUND.
THERE SHE IS.
Chris: WE'VE JUST COME ACROSS THIS BEAR,
AND SHE IS FRANTICALLY SEARCHING FOR SOMETHING.
LOOKING EVERYWHERE AND SMELLING,
AND SHE'S ALSO DOING THIS ANXIOUS HUFF.
SHE'S GOING, "HOO! HOO!"
AND SHE'S BEHAVING LIKE OTHER FEMALES
THAT I'VE SEEN WHEN THEY LOSE THEIR CUB.
I'M GOING TO PULL FORWARD A BIT.
SHE'S SO ERRATIC, IT DOESN'T LOOK
LIKE SHE'S RUNNING FROM ANOTHER BEAR.
IF SHE WAS, SHE'D BE LOOKING OVER HER SHOULDER AT THAT BEAR.
BUT SHE'S JUST JUST KIND OF ALL OVER THE PLACE RIGHT NOW.
IT REALLY LOOKS LIKE SHE'S LOOKING FOR A LOST CUB.
SHE'S GOT HER HEAD
AND HER NOSE DOWN NOW, SORT OF LOOKING.
OH, SHE'S FOUND HER CUB!
THAT IS MAGIC! SHE'S FOUND HER CUB!
I CAN'T BELIEVE IT!
YOU KNOW, WHEN I WAS SAYING
SHE LOOKS LIKE A FEMALE WHO IS LOOKING FOR A LOST CUB,
I MEANT THAT IT LOOKS LIKE THE CUB WAS PROBABLY KILLED.
BUT IT LOOKS LIKE, MAYBE, SHE JUST HAD LITERALLY
LOST THE CUB IN THIS MASSIVE BERRY PATCH HERE.
JUST LOOK HOW EXCITED THEY ARE TO HAVE FOUND EACH OTHER.
THEY'RE SO MUCH SMALLER THAN THE BROWN BEARS
I'M USED TO SEEING ALONG THE COAST.
AND THESE GUYS HAVE THIS SHAGGY GOLDEN COAT
AND CHOCOLATE BROWN LEGS.
IT'S A COLORATION THAT'S COMMON AMONG THE FEMALES HERE.
THEY'RE CALLED TOKLAT GRIZZLIES, NAMED AFTER THE RIVER
THAT RUNS THROUGH THIS VALLEY.
JUST BEAUTIFUL!
SUBARCTIC SUMMERS ARE SHORT.
AND IN JUST A FEW WEEKS,
DENALI WILL BE IN THE GRIPS OF WINTER.
TEMPERATURES WILL DIP TO A CHILLING 60 DEGREES BELOW.
ANIMALS MUST BE RESOURCEFUL TO SURVIVE IT.
FOR WOLVES AND THE OTHER DENALI PREDATORS,
THIS IS A PLENTIFUL TIME OF YEAR.
AND THE LAST CHANCE FOR AN EASY MEAL.
ARCTIC GROUND SQUIRRELS ARE BUSY FATTENING UP FOR WINTER,
SOMETIMES DOUBLING THEIR BODY WEIGHT BEFORE HIBERNATION.
[ GROUND SQUIRREL SQUEAKING ]
WHILE FOOD IS STILL PLENTIFUL,
WOLVES ARE BUSY CACHING SOME OF THEIR KILLS
IN ORDER TO SPEND MORE TIME HUNTING
AND PERHAPS TO FEED THEIR YOUNG PUPS.
RED FOXES ARE VERY EFFICIENT PREDATORS
AND LARGELY RESPONSIBLE
FOR KEEPING THE RODENT POPULATION IN CHECK.
WHILE THEY HAVE EXCELLENT HEARING,
NO SENSE IS MORE FINELY TUNED THAN THEIR SENSE OF SMELL.
FOXES ARE OPPORTUNISTIC CRITTERS,
AND THEY'LL EVEN POACH OTHER ANIMALS' CACHES
IF THEY SNIFF THEM OUT.
IT MUST BE BONANZA TIME
FOR THESE FOXES DURING THE SUMMER,
BECAUSE IN THE WINTERTIME, THEY DON'T HIBERNATE,
BUT MANY OF THEIR PREY SPECIES DO.
THEY'VE GOT THEIR NOSES TO THE GROUND THE WHOLE TIME
AND THEY ARE INCREDIBLY ALERT-LOOKING.
THOSE MASSIVE EARS ALWAYS LISTENING FOR PREY.
WELL, ALMOST ALWAYS.
THEY DO FIND PLENTY OF TIME TO GOOF AROUND.
[ LAUGHS ]
THEY LOOK SO MISCHIEVOUS.
THESE TWO COULD BE PARTNERS.
RED FOXES ARE MONOGAMOUS
AND OFTEN MATE FOR LIFE.
IT'S COMFORTING
THAT THEY HAVE EACH OTHER IN THIS ENORMOUS LANDSCAPE.
THE FIRST DIFFERENCE YOU NOTICE HERE
FROM THE BEARS ALONG THE COAST
IS DENSITY.
THERE ARE 20 TIMES THE DENSITY OF BEARS ALONG THE COAST
AS THERE ARE HERE IN DENALI.
THESE BEARS ARE SPREAD OUT
ACROSS THE PARK, MAKING IT MUCH MORE CHALLENGING
TO TRACK THEM DOWN.
[ LAUGHS ]
TWO STEPS FORWARD, THREE STEPS BACK.
THERE'S TWO BEDS HERE.
THIS IS PROBABLY THE FEMALE'S BED,
AND THAT ONE'S PROBABLY A CUB.
THERE'S A PILE OF SCAT RIGHT BY YOUR BOOT THERE, JOE.
SO THIS IS PROBABLY A REALLY GOOD VANTAGE POINT.
GIVES THEM A GREAT VIEW ACROSS THIS WHOLE VALLEY,
AND THEY'RE NICE AND SAFE FROM COMPETITORS
AND BIG MALE BEARS THAT MIGHT THREATEN THE CUBS.
IT'S A GOOD SPOT TO BE, ACTUALLY.
THEY'LL SPEND THE REST OF THEIR SEASON GRAZING THIS HILL,
STOCKING UP FOR WINTER,
WHILE THE BERRIES ARE STILL ON THE BRANCHES,
AND WATCHING THEIR NEIGHBORS PASSING THROUGH TOWN.
LOOK HOW MILKY THIS RIVER IS.
ALL OF THIS SILT WAS BROUGHT DOWNSTREAM
FROM THE GLACIERS,
AND THE SALMON CAN'T SURVIVE
IN WATER THAT IS THIS THICK WITH SILT.
THINK ABOUT THOSE COASTAL BROWN BEARS RIGHT NOW,
GORGING THEMSELVES ON GIANT, FAT-RICH SALMON.
AND THEIR COUSINS HERE IN THE INTERIOR ARE EATING BERRIES.
AH, HERE ARE SOME OF THE BERRIES THAT THE BEARS LOVE TO FEED ON.
THIS IS ONE OF THEIR FAVORITES.
THIS ONE'S CALLED CROWBERRY.
AND THESE BEARS
WILL FOCUS ON THESE BERRIES SO INTENTLY,
THEY CAN EAT 100,000 OF THEM IN A DAY.
THAT WAS 10.
GRIZZLY BEARS HAVE THOSE HUGE, PREHENSILE LIPS,
MEANING THE LIPS AREN'T ATTACHED TO THE GUM,
AND THEY MAKE REALLY EFFICIENT PLUCKING TOOLS.
MORE EFFICIENT THAN MY FINGERS, THAT'S FOR SURE.
THEY ABSORB THE SUGARS THROUGH THE SKIN OF THE FRUIT.
SOMETIMES THEY DON'T EVEN CRUSH IT.
AND IT ALWAYS BLOWS MY MIND
TO THINK THAT THESE BEARS CAN SURVIVE,
AND NOT ONLY SURVIVE FOR THE SUMMER,
BUT SEE THEMSELVES THROUGH A WINTER OF HIBERNATION, AS WELL,
ON A DIET OF LARGELY BERRIES AND GRASSES AND SEDGES.
GRIZZLY BEARS WERE VERY SMART AND VERY ADAPTABLE.
THEY PUT THOSE CLAWS AND THOSE DIGGING MUSCLES TO GOOD USE,
AND THEY WERE ABLE TO REALLY DIVERSIFY
AND MAKE THE MOST OF THE SPECIES
THAT ARE AVAILABLE SEASONALLY HERE AS FOODS.
THAT'S THE EPITOME OF SUCCESS FOR A WILD ANIMAL,
THAT YOU'VE BEEN ABLE TO PERSIST OVER THIS HUGE DURATION OF TIME.
YOU'VE WATCHED GLACIERS COME AND GO...
AND YOU'RE STILL HERE.
JOHN MUIR ONCE WROTE,
"TO THE LOVER OF WILDERNESS, ALASKA IS ONE OF THE MOST
WONDERFUL COUNTRIES IN THE WORLD."
FOR ME, ALASKA IS A PLACE OF SOLITUDE.
A PLACE TO INSPIRE AND REKINDLE YOUR SPIRIT.
EVEN HERE, IN THE WIDE-OPEN SPACES OF DENALI,
A MOTHER BEAR'S HOME RANGE CAN OVERLAP WITH PEOPLE.
SHE PROBABLY WALKED THIS SAME PATH WHEN SHE WAS A CUB.
WHILE A PARTICULAR SCENT HAS GOTTEN MUM'S ATTENTION,
THE CUBS ARE STILL WARY,
KEEPING A WATCHFUL EYE
ON THE BUS LOAD OF TOURISTS.
PERHAPS THIS IS MUM'S WAY
OF INTRODUCING HER OFFSPRING
TO THE STRANGE NEW SMELLS AND SOUNDS OF THE HUMAN WORLD...
TEACHING THEM, AS HER MOTHER MOST LIKELY DID,
THAT PEOPLE ARE NOT A THREAT.
WHAT IS IT?
WHICH WAY ARE THEY EVEN LOOKING?
OH, THERE SHE IS!
SHE'S A PRETTY CONFIDENT MUM, AND HER CUBS ARE NOT FAR BEHIND.
[ CAMERA SHUTTERS CLICKING ]
WOW. HE'S CLOSE.
BOLD LITTLE GUY. LOOK AT THAT!
IT'S UP TO THE BUS DRIVER TO TEMPER HIS CURIOSITY
BY JUST THE SLIGHTEST MOVEMENT.
THE TWO OF THEM LOOK LIKE TROUBLE.
IT'S RARE ENOUGH TO SEE A GRIZZLY BEAR IN THE WILD.
BUT TO WATCH A PLAYFUL MOMENT UNFOLD IN FRONT OF YOU,
IT'S A REMARKABLE THING.
THESE SIBLINGS PLAY WITH A COMBINATION
OF BOTH STRENGTH AND AFFECTION.
IT'S THIS VERY DICHOTOMY
THAT MAKES BEARS
SO FASCINATING AND COMPLEX.
FOR SOME FOLKS HERE,
THESE MAY BE THE LAST
WILD GRIZZLIES THEY EVER SEE.
QUIET MOMENTS LIKE THIS
ARE THE KIND YOU LEAVE SILENTLY, RELUCTANTLY.
THERE IS NOTHING NONCHALANT AND EASYGOING ABOUT THESE GUYS.
I CAN'T IMAGINE THEM TAKING A BREAK.
THEY'RE PROBABLY FEEDING DAY AND NIGHT
FROM NOW TILL WHEN THEY DEN.
AND IT'S COLD NOW,
IT'S WHAT, 10:00 AT NIGHT, AND YOU CAN REALLY FEEL
THE COLD IN THE AIR.
I WOULDN'T WANT TO BE A BEAR HERE.
[ LAUGHS ]
IT'S LATE SEPTEMBER,
WINTER IS JUST AROUND THE CORNER,
AND AS TOUGH AS THE BEARS HAVE IT HERE,
IT DOESN'T HOLD A CANDLE TO ALASKA'S NORTH SLOPE.
FURTHER NORTH, A WHOLE NEW SPECIES OF BEAR HAS EVOLVED
TO COPE WITH AN ICIER WORLD.
I'M HEADED TO POLAR BEAR COUNTRY,
AND THERE'S ONLY ONE WAY BY LAND TO GET THERE.
THE DALTON HIGHWAY.
SHADOWED FOR OVER 400 MILES
BY THE TRANS ALASKA PIPELINE.
IT'S THE MOST REMOTE HIGHWAY IN THE UNITED STATES.
PRETTY STRAIGHTFORWARD JOURNEY SO FAR,
BUT I'VE REACHED THIS REALLY INCREDIBLE LANDMARK,
THE ARCTIC CIRCLE --
66 DEGREES, 33 MINUTES NORTH.
I'VE STILL GOT ABOUT 320 MILES TO GO
TILL I REACH PRUDHOE BAY...
AND A LOT OF GRAVEL BETWEEN HERE AND THERE.
THERE IS A DEFINITE BITE IN THE AIR THIS MORNING.
SEEMS LIKE EVERY MILE
I HEAD NORTH, THE TEMPERATURES DROP
AND THE CLOSER WE GET TO WINTER.
SO I'M AT ATIGUN PASS, A REALLY ISOLATED PASS
THAT CROSSES THE BROOKS RANGE.
AND IT TAKES YOU FROM ONE WORLD INTO ANOTHER.
LEAVE THE STUNTED SPRUCE TREES BEHIND,
AND YOU ENTER THIS PREHISTORIC-LOOKING LANDSCAPE.
IT'S AN ARCTIC DESERT.
I'VE SEEN JUST A HANDFUL OF CARIBOU ALONG THE PIPELINE,
BUT MANY THOUSANDS ROAM THE SURROUNDING TUNDRA.
CRITTERS HAVE SETTLED DOWN
ALONG THIS DESOLATE STRETCH OF ROAD.
AND FOR A NIGHT OR TWO, SO WILL I.
YOU CAN'T HELP BUT IMAGINE WHAT WILD COUNTRY THIS WAS
BEFORE THE ROAD WENT IN.
AND REALLY, THE ONLY REASON THIS ROAD IS HERE
IS IN SUPPORT OF THE PIPELINE.
IT'S WINDSWEPT AND DESOLATE,
BUT THIS IS GRIZZLY BEAR COUNTRY, AS WELL.
I'VE GOT ABOUT 150 MORE MILES TO GO
TO THE END OF THE HIGHWAY,
AND I'M SORT OF IN THIS FIGHT AGAINST TIME
RIGHT NOW, TRYING TO GET UP TO THE NORTH SLOPE
BEFORE THE WEATHER LOCKS THIS PLACE DOWN FOR THE WINTER.
MUSKOXEN ARE OUT, ENJOYING
THE LAST FLEETING DAYS OF FALL,
TAKING ADVANTAGE OF THE FRESH GRASSES AND LEAVES
WHILE STILL ABOVE GROUND.
THE INUPIAT ESKIMOS
CALL THEM "OMINGMAK,"
MEANING "THE BEARDED ONE."
BUT I'VE GOT TO PUSH NORTH,
TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THIS WEATHER WHILE IT LASTS.
THESE GUYS, ON THE OTHER HAND,
WELCOME THE COMING WINTER.
THEY ARE BUILT FOR THE ARCTIC
AND THRIVE IN TEMPERATURES OF 50 BELOW.
MAKES ME WONDER WHAT I MIGHT BE GETTING MYSELF INTO.
THE LAST SECTION OF THE ROAD
BEFORE YOU HIT PRUDHOE BAY IS DEAD STRAIGHT.
AND YOU FEEL LIKE YOU'RE DRIVING THROUGH THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE.
AND AFTER RIDING FOR HUNDREDS OF MILES,
SUDDENLY THERE'S A SIGN OF CIVILIZATION THERE...
ON THE HORIZON,
AT THE EDGE OF THIS CONTINENT.
IT'S A STRANGE FEELING WHEN YOU
FIRST SEE THE GLIMMER OF LIGHTS THROUGH THE FOG OF PRUDHOE BAY.
DOESN'T LOOK LIKE ANY NORMAL TOWN AT ALL.
IT'S THIS CROSS BETWEEN A TRUCK STOP AND A SPACE STATION
AT THE END OF THE ROAD.
YOU CAN GO NO FURTHER IN ALASKA.
THIS IS WHERE IT ALL STOPS.
I'M RELIEVED TO SEE THAT THERE'S SOME CAREFREE LIFE
ON THIS GIANT SLAB OF CONCRETE.
AND, MUCH LIKE OUR FURRY LITTLE FRIENDS IN ANCHORAGE,
THESE YOUNG ARCTIC FOXES
ARE MAKING THE MOST OF THEIR SURROUNDINGS.
IT'S A TESTAMENT, REALLY, TO THEIR SPIRIT.
THEY CONTEND WITH
THIS FRIGID CLIMATE AND MANKIND'S FOOTPRINT.
AND THEY SEEM TO TAKE IT ALL IN STRIDE.
NOWHERE ELSE ON MY JOURNEY HAVE I FELT MAN'S IMPACT
MORE THAN HERE.
HERE, AT THE VERY EDGE OF THE ARCTIC OCEAN,
IN ONE OF THE MOST INHOSPITABLE ENVIRONMENTS ON EARTH,
A CITY HAS EMERGED,
EIGHTEEN TIMES THE SIZE OF MANHATTAN, AND GROWING.
PRUDHOE BAY IS THE LARGEST OIL FIELD IN NORTH AMERICA,
PUMPING OUT OVER 600,000 BARRELS OF CRUDE OIL A DAY.
THE IMPACT OF CLIMATE CHANGE
IS FELT STRONGEST HERE IN THE ARCTIC.
IT SEEMS LIKE SUCH A DESOLATE PLACE,
MADE MORE SO BY THE ACRES
OF COLD METAL AND STEEL.
BUT IN THE SHADOW
OF THIS GIANT INDUSTRIAL WASTELAND,
THERE'S A TINY GLIMMER ON THE HORIZON.
[ BIRDS CALLING ]
THIS FROZEN OASIS IS THE HOME OF THE POLAR BEAR.
SOON THE OCEAN WILL FREEZE,
DAYS WILL TURN TO NIGHTS...
AND WHILE THE REST OF THE BEARS SLEEP,
THE SEASON OF THE POLAR BEAR WILL BEGIN.
THEY WILL HEAD OUT INTO THE DARKNESS,
ACROSS THE FROZEN OCEAN, TO HUNT.
AND THAT'S WHERE I'M HEADED,
INTO ONE OF THE MOST INHOSPITABLE PLACES ON EARTH,
WHERE MY NEXT ADVENTURE BEGINS.
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